Wow, this is incredible! Only 11
weeks difference from the first picture and the second on a Prey Model Raw Diet. Amazing, isn’t it? Thank you Jessica, for
allowing me to share such wonderful success with your raw fed dog. Beautiful teeth to match a beautiful dog.
This page is dedicated to teaching the tips and tricks of naturally feeding and healthy
rearing for your carnivores. This includes dog, cats, and ferrets.
Showing posts with label Raw Diet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Raw Diet. Show all posts
Monday, July 14, 2014
Wednesday, June 18, 2014
Recreational Bones
Part of feeding
our pets a healthy diet is also feeding our pets safely. I hear the phrase, recreation
bones, thrown around a lot when talking about raw. For those of you who do not
know what those are, recreational bones are, non-edible, raw bones from weight
bearing animals that have been stripped of most, if not all, meat. Non-edible
means they cannot be crushed into smaller pieces to swallow safely for
nutritional purposes.
Examples of Recreational Bones:
Even though recreational bones are raw, they are not okay to feed for several reasons:
| Photo courtesy of US Wellness Meats |
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| Photo courtesy of US Wellness Meats |
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| Photo courtesy of US Wellness Meats |
Even though recreational bones are raw, they are not okay to feed for several reasons:
- They are dense
bones from weight bearing animals such as cow or elk and can chip, crack or fracture
teeth which is painful for the dog and expensive to fix.
- They are a
choking hazard.
- They do not
clean teeth; they wear down the teeth by destroying the enamel. The gnawing on
hard bone files down teeth over time. Cleaning teeth is more than just crushing
up bones but also the flossing and rubbing action when eating meat.
- They do not
provide any more mental stimulation that feeding whole pieces of raw meat cannot
provide.
- Wolves have
been documented leaving these types of bones at the kill site; stripped of meat
and then left untouched.
When I first
started feeding raw, I paid no attention to the warnings of those more
experienced than me about the dangers of recreational bones, such as beef
shanks, femurs, marrow bones, and knuckles. I ignored them because I felt I was
doing everything right and Balto was not an aggressive gnawer. Well, a month
into feeding them, after one particular session, I noticed Balto had chipped two
of his back molars. Thankfully they were only superficial chips and no real
damage was done for the vet to fix. I was lucky in that sense, but I put Balto at
risk simply because I felt I knew better. It was then I swore off of
recreational bones. I believe that the costs outweigh any benefits people may
feel recreational bones might provide.
However, weight
bearing bones with lots of meat still attached is fine to feed. Feeding big pieces
of bone-in beef, elk, venison, buffalo, moose, etc. with plenty of meat attached
is okay because by the time they get down to the bone, their excitement for the
food has dwindled and they are much calmer to gently tear at any remainders of meat
without damaging their teeth or chocking. When the bone is bare of meat, it should
be discarded.
*I would
consider antlers to be an unsafe recreational bone to feed as well.
Safe Recreational
Treats to Feed:
I feed Balto bully
sticks which are dried out bull pizzle (penis). It is a healthy and safe alternative
to recreational bones. He loves them, they help clean teeth, massage the gums,
and they exercise the jaw. In addition, they are not too hard that they will
crack, chip, or fracture any teeth. You can’t ask for a better treat!
Pictures of Balto eating a bullystick.
If you are
interested in a particular topic, leave it in the comments below.
Thursday, June 12, 2014
Heartworm: What You Need To Know
Summer is here and a hot topic during these months is whether or not to administer heartworm medication. This topic is extremely personal and I’d rather not give a definitive ‘yes or no’ answer to. There are multiple factors that can affect how much risk our dogs, ferrets, and cats are to developing heartworm. Rather, I will discuss how heartworm develops and provide you with alternatives to heartworm medications and allow you, as a responsible owner, to make a decision. When you understand the enemy you’re up against, it makes the battle much easier.
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| Picture taken from http://www.martindaleanimalclinic.com/heartworm-disease/ |
What is
heartworm?
Heartworm is a
parasitic roundworm that lives in the heart and pulmonary
arteries of dogs, cats, and ferrets. It is
spread to the animal by being bitten by an infected mosquito and releasing immature
worms or larvae called microfilaria onto the skin, which then penetrated the
bite wound and enters into the animal’s blood stream
(Brooks, 2012). Once in the blood stream, it takes approximately 6
months for the microfilaria to leave the skin, circulate the body, and reach
the heart where they can develop into adult heartworm (Fudens, 2014).
How does it develop?
The key note
about heartworm is that it is not as simple as being bitten by a mosquito. Only
females carrying stage 3 microfilaria can transmit the parasite. If the microfilaria
is not a stage 3 larva, infection cannot occur. There are five stages of
development.
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| Picture taken from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dirofilaria_immitis |
Stage One: L1
-
When
adult male and female worms are present in the heart of the host, they breed
and give birth to microfilaria which circulate the body and can do so for up to
2 years before they die of old age (Brooks,
2012).
-
When
bitten by a mosquito, it sucks up the L1 larvae in its body to start the development
into the L2 stage (Brooks, 2012).
Stage Two: L2
-
The
L2 development into L3’s depends on temperate conditions (Brooks, 2012).
-
For
temperatures of 14 degrees Celsius, 57 degrees Fahrenheit, 45 days of consecutive,
day and night, temperatures must occur (Brooks,
2012).
-
The
warmer the temperature, the faster the L2’s will develop into L3’s (Brooks, 2012).
-
For
temperatures of 26 degree Celsius or higher, 80+ degrees Fahrenheit, at least 2
weeks of night and day temperatures must occur (Brooks,
2012).
Stage Three: L3
-
When
the mosquito bites the host, the L3 larvae are deposited onto the skin of the
host in a droplet of saliva (Brooks, 2012).
-
For
infection to occur, it must be humid enough for the larvae to swim into the
bite wound and into the host before the saliva evaporates (Brooks, 2012).
-
Inside
the host the L3 develop into an L4 over a time span of 1-2 weeks (Brooks, 2012).
Stage Four: L4
-
L4’s
live in the skin of the host for approximately 3 months until it develops into
the L5’s and ready to enter the circulatory system (Brooks, 2012).
Stage Five: L5
-
L5’s
are young adult worms that travel to the heart and pulmonary arteries to mate
and breed (Brooks, 2012). Approximately
5-7 months after infection (Brooks, 2012).
Is heartworm medication
a preventative?
No. Heartworm
medication is not a preventative. The medications are poisons that kill parasites
and microfilaria after the animal has become infected, it does not prevent the mosquito
from biting and infecting the animal.
*It is important
to understand that heartworm medication does not protect the dog from future
infection. It only treats after potential infection has occurred.
Are there
natural preventatives?
First and foremost,
a healthy immune system is always the best defence against anything. Feeding a
raw diet and minimal vaccinations are the best ways to keep the body working at
its optimal level. Having said that, although a healthy immune system is best,
it will not guarantee 100% that your dog will not contract heartworm. The
notion that a healthy, raw fed, dog with minimal vaccines cannot contract
heartworm is not true. Even healthy dogs have the potential to become infected
with heartworm.
Second, avoid the
time of the day where mosquitoes are most active. Between dusk and dawn is
typically when mosquitoes are most active due to the cooler temperatures. They avoid
direct sunlight. In addition, avoid letting your dog sit in the shade surrounding
wooded, forestry areas as humid, moist, spots are where mosquitoes love to hang
out around. Having said that, after a rainfall when the air is moist and humid
and there is not much direct sunlight, mosquitoes are very active so avoid
spending much time outside wooded, forestry areas.
- Black walnut is
a common treatment I hear to naturally treat heartworm. I personally have not
used this as a preventative but many do. It works by cleansing the intestinal
tract and passing into the blood stream to kill parasites. Dr. Dobias has
reported success in curing a heartworm positive dog with it. http://peterdobias.com/blogs/blog/11016121-heartworm-dilemma-drugs-or-no-drugs-natural-treatment-protocol
- Garlic is a great
tool to repel parasites such as fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes from approaching the
animal. It also has cleansing properties within the body. I administer fresh
crushed garlic as a natural preventative myself, but do not solely rely on this
method.
- Keeping the pests
away that transmit heartworm is key. Natural pest repellents are a great
preventative for mosquitoes, as well as ticks and fleas. Make sure if you are using
one on your cat, it is manufactured for the use on cats. They are very sensitive
to certain essential oils and chemicals. Remember with natural pet sprays,
frequent application is recommended. Natural products simply do not have the
duration of effectiveness as chemical spray products do.
* I pair up a
natural pest repellent with fresh crushed garlic.
- Food grade Diatomaceous
Earth is another way to keep pests off of our pets. It cuts into the pests
bodies and dries them out so they dehydrate and die. However is MUST be food grade, others have nasty
chemicals that are harmful to us and our pets. Rubbing some into the pet's coat
keeps bugs off.
Should I give Heartworm
medication to my pet?
The decision to
give heartworm medication should be weighed by the risks of infection. Ask yourself
this:
1)
Are
temperatures appropriate for the development of heartworm in my area and for
how long? In all areas of Canada, when temperatures reach appropriate levels it’s
less than 4 months of the year and that is including the time it takes for the microfilaria
to develop into L3’s. Yet I would still get 6 doses for heartworm medication from my vet. That means I
would be dosing my pets during months when it is biologically impossible for
our pets to become infected.
2)
What
are my pet’s lifestyles like? Majority of pets I know do not sleep outside and
since between dusk and dawn is when they are most vulnerable of being bitten by
a mosquito, the risk is reduced.
3)
Do
my pets spend majority of their time near moist, damp, environments like wooded
areas and forests? If you live in the city, there is not as many moist, cozy area’s
mosquitoes like to hang out in which reduces the risk of infection.
*The link below shows
you a chart of the risk of infection in all US states.
Is there a healthier
program for administering Heartworm Medication?
For those of you
that feel the risk is too high to not give Heartworm medication, the link below
gives great information on the timing and dosing of different heartworm medications.
Most drugs can be dosed safety, with 100% effectiveness, 6 weeks after threat
of L3’s development has occurred.
Other Resources:
http://scholar.google.ca/scholar?q=Modeling+the+distribution+and+abundance+of+the+non-native+parasite,+canine+heartworm,+in+California+coyotes&hl=en&as_sdt=0&as_vis=1&oi=scholart&sa=X&ei=dMmZU4aKE86syASMpICACg&ved=0CBwQgQMwAA
This is a scholarly article, some may not have access to it without paying for
it.
Bibliography:
Brooks, W. C. (2012, July 5). Heartworm:
The Parasite. Retrieved June 12, 2014, from VeterinaryPartner.com:
http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?A=615
Fudens, J. (2014). Heartworm. Retrieved
June 12, 2014, from Dogs Naturally Magazine:
http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/heartworm/
Tuesday, June 10, 2014
Feeding a Raw Diet to Our Pets
Diet is an
extremely important part of keeping the body healthy so that it can work at its
optimal level. As Hippocrates quotes, “Let food be thy medicine and medicine be
thy food.” This is why I believe that a raw diet is the best way we can feed our
pets.
There seems to
be mutual agreement that cats and ferrets are carnivores but there is a common
misconception that dogs are omnivores. Dogs are in fact carnivores as well. Dogs, Canis lupus familiaris, are part of the order carnivora. They
have evolved from the grey wolf with only 0.2% mtDNA sequence in comparison to
a 4% mtDNA sequence difference from grey wolves to coyotes (Miles, 1998-2002). The digestion of wolves
and dogs has not changed; they both share the same enzymes for the appropriate digestion
of bones, meat, and organs (Mech and Boitani,
2003, p. 115). Domestication has not changed the basic anatomy and
physiology of a dog’s digestion (Mech and
Boitani, 2003, p. 115). Because of this, dog require little to no carbohydrates
in their diet. David Mech, an expert in wolf biology, found that wolf’s consumption
of carbohydrates ranged from 0%-1.7% and suffered no diet deficiencies when
they consumed the entire carcass of their prey which includes organs, bones,
and meat (Mech and Boitani, 2003, p. 114).
In addition,
dogs do not have the appropriate enzymes in their stomachs or saliva to break
down starches, cellulose, and carbohydrates in fruits and vegetables to absorbs
the nutrients they offer. They also lack flat molars to crush, grind, and break
down the cellulose in plant matter so the body can absorb the nutrients. This
is why people say that you need to puree or mash fruits and vegetables before
feeding them. Dog, cats, and ferrets teeth are designed for shredding, ripping,
and tearing meat and bones, they do not chew like an omnivore or herbivore
does. That is why their teeth, from their incisors and all the way to their
molars, are sharp and jagged so they can easily sink them into flesh.
Feeding a Prey
Model Raw diet, 80% meat: 10% bone: 10% organs (5% liver, 5% other), is the
best way to nourish our pets. There are many health benefits that come with feeding
whole foods that feeding kibble cannot provide. Some benefits are:
1)
The
gnawing of flesh and bone allows for the gums to be massaged, and teeth to be
flossed and cleaned to stop tartar build up and bacteria from growing.
2)
It
can eliminate diet-based allergies caused by a highly process diet.
3)
Dog,
cats, and ferrets have low drive to drink water as they get their water they
need from the meat they consume. Remember, majority of meat is made up of water
content. Kibble is almost completely void of moisture and thus leaves our
carnivores in a chronic state of dehydration that can lead to a whole host of
problems.
4)
Due
to raw meat being in its natural form, it can digest quickly and easily without
stressing the pancreas, kidneys, and liver. This allows the body to focus on
aspects that need attention to keep the body healthy and strong.
5) Smaller, less smelly stools.
The concern with
meat being high in protein is misguided as raw meat is actually not high in
protein at all; approximately 70-75% is water, 19-23% is crude
protein, and 3-2% is fat, as well as vitamins and minerals (Wenther, 2011).
Dog, cats, and ferrets, have a shortened gastrointestinal tract which allows
raw meat to pass through the body quickly as to not give time for pathogens to
sit and grow in the stomach.
You can find
great information from the sites and groups posted below that can help you
learn to feed the healthiest possible diet for your pets.
Sites:
Bibliography:
Mech, L. D., & Boitani, L.
(2003). Wolves: Behavior, Ecology, and Conservation. University of
Chicago Press.
Miles, K. (1998-2002). What is a
Wolfdog? Retrieved June 9, 2014, from Canid Genetics:
http://www2.fiu.edu/~milesk/Genetics.htm
Wenther, J. B. (2011). Basics
of Meat Science. Retrieved June 9, 2014, from Nassau Foods:
http://www.nassaufoods.com/index.php?content=basicsofmeatscience
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