Showing posts with label Raw Diet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Raw Diet. Show all posts

Monday, July 14, 2014

Before and After Raw Feeding



Wow, this is incredible! Only 11 weeks difference from the first picture and the second on a Prey Model Raw Diet. Amazing, isn’t it? Thank you Jessica, for allowing me to share such wonderful success with your raw fed dog. Beautiful teeth to match a beautiful dog.



Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Recreational Bones

Part of feeding our pets a healthy diet is also feeding our pets safely. I hear the phrase, recreation bones, thrown around a lot when talking about raw. For those of you who do not know what those are, recreational bones are, non-edible, raw bones from weight bearing animals that have been stripped of most, if not all, meat. Non-edible means they cannot be crushed into smaller pieces to swallow safely for nutritional purposes.

Examples of Recreational Bones:
Photo courtesy of US Wellness Meats

Photo courtesy of US Wellness Meats

Photo courtesy of US Wellness Meats


Even though recreational bones are raw, they are not okay to feed for several reasons:

- They are dense bones from weight bearing animals such as cow or elk and can chip, crack or fracture teeth which is painful for the dog and expensive to fix.
- They are a choking hazard.
- They do not clean teeth; they wear down the teeth by destroying the enamel. The gnawing on hard bone files down teeth over time. Cleaning teeth is more than just crushing up bones but also the flossing and rubbing action when eating meat.
- They do not provide any more mental stimulation that feeding whole pieces of raw meat cannot provide.
- Wolves have been documented leaving these types of bones at the kill site; stripped of meat and then left untouched.

When I first started feeding raw, I paid no attention to the warnings of those more experienced than me about the dangers of recreational bones, such as beef shanks, femurs, marrow bones, and knuckles. I ignored them because I felt I was doing everything right and Balto was not an aggressive gnawer. Well, a month into feeding them, after one particular session, I noticed Balto had chipped two of his back molars. Thankfully they were only superficial chips and no real damage was done for the vet to fix. I was lucky in that sense, but I put Balto at risk simply because I felt I knew better. It was then I swore off of recreational bones. I believe that the costs outweigh any benefits people may feel recreational bones might provide.

However, weight bearing bones with lots of meat still attached is fine to feed. Feeding big pieces of bone-in beef, elk, venison, buffalo, moose, etc. with plenty of meat attached is okay because by the time they get down to the bone, their excitement for the food has dwindled and they are much calmer to gently tear at any remainders of meat without damaging their teeth or chocking. When the bone is bare of meat, it should be discarded.

*I would consider antlers to be an unsafe recreational bone to feed as well.

Safe Recreational Treats to Feed:

I feed Balto bully sticks which are dried out bull pizzle (penis). It is a healthy and safe alternative to recreational bones. He loves them, they help clean teeth, massage the gums, and they exercise the jaw. In addition, they are not too hard that they will crack, chip, or fracture any teeth. You can’t ask for a better treat! 

Pictures of Balto eating a bullystick.



If you are interested in a particular topic, leave it in the comments below.

Thursday, June 12, 2014

Heartworm: What You Need To Know


Summer is here and a hot topic during these months is whether or not to administer heartworm medication. This topic is extremely personal and I’d rather not give a definitive ‘yes or no’ answer to. There are multiple factors that can affect how much risk our dogs, ferrets, and cats are to developing heartworm. Rather, I will discuss how heartworm develops and provide you with alternatives to heartworm medications and allow you, as a responsible owner, to make a decision. When you understand the enemy you’re up against, it makes the battle much easier.

Picture taken from http://www.martindaleanimalclinic.com/heartworm-disease/
Firstly, I would like to start by saying that by blindly administering heartworm medication simply because it is warm outside or because the calendar says it’s May, is the wrong reason to give Heartworm drugs. Let me explain to you why. Heartworm, Dirofilaria immitis, cannot develop if appropriate environmental conditions are not present. Like all living organisms on planet Earth, heartworm, too, must follow biology to become a risk to our pets. They simply do not magically appear out of thin air. In case you were wondering, heartworm is not limited to cats and dogs; ferrets can also become infected with the heartworm parasite. However, cats and ferrets do not typically cycle the parasite back to the mosquito (Brooks, 2012).

What is heartworm?
Heartworm is a parasitic roundworm that lives in the heart and pulmonary arteries of dogs, cats, and ferrets. It is spread to the animal by being bitten by an infected mosquito and releasing immature worms or larvae called microfilaria onto the skin, which then penetrated the bite wound and enters into the animal’s blood stream (Brooks, 2012). Once in the blood stream, it takes approximately 6 months for the microfilaria to leave the skin, circulate the body, and reach the heart where they can develop into adult heartworm (Fudens, 2014).

How does it develop?
The key note about heartworm is that it is not as simple as being bitten by a mosquito. Only females carrying stage 3 microfilaria can transmit the parasite. If the microfilaria is not a stage 3 larva, infection cannot occur. There are five stages of development.

Picture taken from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dirofilaria_immitis

Stage One: L1
-          When adult male and female worms are present in the heart of the host, they breed and give birth to microfilaria which circulate the body and can do so for up to 2 years before they die of old age (Brooks, 2012).
-          When bitten by a mosquito, it sucks up the L1 larvae in its body to start the development into the L2 stage (Brooks, 2012).
Stage Two: L2
-          The L2 development into L3’s depends on temperate conditions (Brooks, 2012).
-          For temperatures of 14 degrees Celsius, 57 degrees Fahrenheit, 45 days of consecutive, day and night, temperatures must occur (Brooks, 2012).
-          The warmer the temperature, the faster the L2’s will develop into L3’s (Brooks, 2012).
-          For temperatures of 26 degree Celsius or higher, 80+ degrees Fahrenheit, at least 2 weeks of night and day temperatures must occur (Brooks, 2012).
Stage Three: L3
-          When the mosquito bites the host, the L3 larvae are deposited onto the skin of the host in a droplet of saliva (Brooks, 2012).
-          For infection to occur, it must be humid enough for the larvae to swim into the bite wound and into the host before the saliva evaporates (Brooks, 2012).
-          Inside the host the L3 develop into an L4 over a time span of 1-2 weeks (Brooks, 2012).
Stage Four: L4
-          L4’s live in the skin of the host for approximately 3 months until it develops into the L5’s and ready to enter the circulatory system (Brooks, 2012).
Stage Five: L5
-          L5’s are young adult worms that travel to the heart and pulmonary arteries to mate and breed (Brooks, 2012). Approximately 5-7 months after infection (Brooks, 2012).

Is heartworm medication a preventative?
No. Heartworm medication is not a preventative. The medications are poisons that kill parasites and microfilaria after the animal has become infected, it does not prevent the mosquito from biting and infecting the animal. 

*It is important to understand that heartworm medication does not protect the dog from future infection. It only treats after potential infection has occurred.

Are there natural preventatives?
First and foremost, a healthy immune system is always the best defence against anything. Feeding a raw diet and minimal vaccinations are the best ways to keep the body working at its optimal level. Having said that, although a healthy immune system is best, it will not guarantee 100% that your dog will not contract heartworm. The notion that a healthy, raw fed, dog with minimal vaccines cannot contract heartworm is not true. Even healthy dogs have the potential to become infected with heartworm. 

Second, avoid the time of the day where mosquitoes are most active. Between dusk and dawn is typically when mosquitoes are most active due to the cooler temperatures. They avoid direct sunlight. In addition, avoid letting your dog sit in the shade surrounding wooded, forestry areas as humid, moist, spots are where mosquitoes love to hang out around. Having said that, after a rainfall when the air is moist and humid and there is not much direct sunlight, mosquitoes are very active so avoid spending much time outside wooded, forestry areas.

- Black walnut is a common treatment I hear to naturally treat heartworm. I personally have not used this as a preventative but many do. It works by cleansing the intestinal tract and passing into the blood stream to kill parasites. Dr. Dobias has reported success in curing a heartworm positive dog with it. http://peterdobias.com/blogs/blog/11016121-heartworm-dilemma-drugs-or-no-drugs-natural-treatment-protocol

- Garlic is a great tool to repel parasites such as fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes from approaching the animal. It also has cleansing properties within the body. I administer fresh crushed garlic as a natural preventative myself, but do not solely rely on this method.

- Keeping the pests away that transmit heartworm is key. Natural pest repellents are a great preventative for mosquitoes, as well as ticks and fleas. Make sure if you are using one on your cat, it is manufactured for the use on cats. They are very sensitive to certain essential oils and chemicals. Remember with natural pet sprays, frequent application is recommended. Natural products simply do not have the duration of effectiveness as chemical spray products do. 

* I pair up a natural pest repellent with fresh crushed garlic. 

- Food grade Diatomaceous Earth is another way to keep pests off of our pets. It cuts into the pests bodies and dries them out so they dehydrate and die. However is MUST be food grade, others have nasty chemicals that are harmful to us and our pets. Rubbing some into the pet's coat keeps bugs off.

Should I give Heartworm medication to my pet?
The decision to give heartworm medication should be weighed by the risks of infection. Ask yourself this:
1)      Are temperatures appropriate for the development of heartworm in my area and for how long? In all areas of Canada, when temperatures reach appropriate levels it’s less than 4 months of the year and that is including the time it takes for the microfilaria to develop into L3’s. Yet I would still get 6 doses for heartworm medication from my vet. That means I would be dosing my pets during months when it is biologically impossible for our pets to become infected.
2)      What are my pet’s lifestyles like? Majority of pets I know do not sleep outside and since between dusk and dawn is when they are most vulnerable of being bitten by a mosquito, the risk is reduced.
3)      Do my pets spend majority of their time near moist, damp, environments like wooded areas and forests? If you live in the city, there is not as many moist, cozy area’s mosquitoes like to hang out in which reduces the risk of infection.

*The link below shows you a chart of the risk of infection in all US states.

Is there a healthier program for administering Heartworm Medication?
For those of you that feel the risk is too high to not give Heartworm medication, the link below gives great information on the timing and dosing of different heartworm medications. Most drugs can be dosed safety, with 100% effectiveness, 6 weeks after threat of L3’s development has occurred.

Other Resources:

Bibliography:
Brooks, W. C. (2012, July 5). Heartworm: The Parasite. Retrieved June 12, 2014, from VeterinaryPartner.com: http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?A=615
Fudens, J. (2014). Heartworm. Retrieved June 12, 2014, from Dogs Naturally Magazine: http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/heartworm/

Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Breakfast time!

Balto eating his breakfast. :)


Feeding a Raw Diet to Our Pets

Diet is an extremely important part of keeping the body healthy so that it can work at its optimal level. As Hippocrates quotes, “Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food.” This is why I believe that a raw diet is the best way we can feed our pets. 

There seems to be mutual agreement that cats and ferrets are carnivores but there is a common misconception that dogs are omnivores. Dogs are in fact carnivores as well. Dogs, Canis lupus familiaris, are part of the order carnivora. They have evolved from the grey wolf with only 0.2% mtDNA sequence in comparison to a 4% mtDNA sequence difference from grey wolves to coyotes (Miles, 1998-2002). The digestion of wolves and dogs has not changed; they both share the same enzymes for the appropriate digestion of bones, meat, and organs (Mech and Boitani, 2003, p. 115). Domestication has not changed the basic anatomy and physiology of a dog’s digestion (Mech and Boitani, 2003, p. 115). Because of this, dog require little to no carbohydrates in their diet. David Mech, an expert in wolf biology, found that wolf’s consumption of carbohydrates ranged from 0%-1.7% and suffered no diet deficiencies when they consumed the entire carcass of their prey which includes organs, bones, and meat (Mech and Boitani, 2003, p. 114).

In addition, dogs do not have the appropriate enzymes in their stomachs or saliva to break down starches, cellulose, and carbohydrates in fruits and vegetables to absorbs the nutrients they offer. They also lack flat molars to crush, grind, and break down the cellulose in plant matter so the body can absorb the nutrients. This is why people say that you need to puree or mash fruits and vegetables before feeding them. Dog, cats, and ferrets teeth are designed for shredding, ripping, and tearing meat and bones, they do not chew like an omnivore or herbivore does. That is why their teeth, from their incisors and all the way to their molars, are sharp and jagged so they can easily sink them into flesh.
Feeding a Prey Model Raw diet, 80% meat: 10% bone: 10% organs (5% liver, 5% other), is the best way to nourish our pets. There are many health benefits that come with feeding whole foods that feeding kibble cannot provide. Some benefits are:

1)      The gnawing of flesh and bone allows for the gums to be massaged, and teeth to be flossed and cleaned to stop tartar build up and bacteria from growing.
2)      It can eliminate diet-based allergies caused by a highly process diet.
3)      Dog, cats, and ferrets have low drive to drink water as they get their water they need from the meat they consume. Remember, majority of meat is made up of water content. Kibble is almost completely void of moisture and thus leaves our carnivores in a chronic state of dehydration that can lead to a whole host of problems.
4)      Due to raw meat being in its natural form, it can digest quickly and easily without stressing the pancreas, kidneys, and liver. This allows the body to focus on aspects that need attention to keep the body healthy and strong.
5)   Smaller, less smelly stools.

The concern with meat being high in protein is misguided as raw meat is actually not high in protein at all; approximately 70-75% is water, 19-23% is crude protein, and 3-2% is fat, as well as vitamins and minerals (Wenther, 2011). Dog, cats, and ferrets, have a shortened gastrointestinal tract which allows raw meat to pass through the body quickly as to not give time for pathogens to sit and grow in the stomach. 

You can find great information from the sites and groups posted below that can help you learn to feed the healthiest possible diet for your pets.

Sites:
-          http://rawfed.com/myths/
-          http://rawfeddogs.org/

Bibliography:
Mech, L. D., & Boitani, L. (2003). Wolves: Behavior, Ecology, and Conservation. University of Chicago Press.
Miles, K. (1998-2002). What is a Wolfdog? Retrieved June 9, 2014, from Canid Genetics: http://www2.fiu.edu/~milesk/Genetics.htm
Wenther, J. B. (2011). Basics of Meat Science. Retrieved June 9, 2014, from Nassau Foods: http://www.nassaufoods.com/index.php?content=basicsofmeatscience